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Scroll down to discover the story of Mary, Queen Of Scots
She spent much of her reign at the royal palaces in Edinburgh, Stirling, Linlithgow and Falkland, but she travelled widely too. She conducted royal business across Scotland. In 1562, 1565 and 1568 she led military campaigns against Scottish rebels. She also travelled widely for pleasure: to hunt, to attend weddings and to pay visits to favoured subjects.
‘Throughout her personal reign, Mary travelled a great deal. A key purpose of travel was the royal progress: a recognised means of meeting subjects and fostering their loyalty.’ ("Mary Was Here", page 52)
‘Mary travelled mainly on horseback. Most thoroughfares were unsuitable for vehicles. She was an accomplished horsewoman, and had brought her favourite horses with her from France.’ ("Mary Was Here", page 52)
‘Mary took relish in her role as a military commander. She wore a pistol in her belt and a steel helmet on her head. For his part, Darnley sported a gilt breastplate.’ ("Mary Was Here", page 68)
‘She went into labour on 19th June, and by all accounts it was a long and painful process. In the absence of gas and air, Margaret, Countess of Atholl, took it upon herself to try witchcraft.’ ("Mary Was Here", page 76)

Mary Was Here, subtitled ‘Where Mary Queen of Scots went and what she did there’, is a fast-paced and very accessible guide to the travels of Scotland’s most famous historical figure.
Co-authored by Andrew Burnet, Nicki Scott and Sally Gall from Historic Scotland, the book is extensively illustrated charting Mary’s life from just before her birth at Linlithgow Palace to the months after her execution at Fotheringhay Castle in Northamptonshire.
You can purchase your copy online or at our visitor attractions, as well as at the National Museum of Scotland.
‘The Earl of Ruthven, who had conducted her to Lochleven, was sent away after falling for her. Sir William Douglas’s younger brother George was also smitten, and secretly swore to serve her.’ ("Mary Was Here", page 97)

















Mary Was Here, subtitled ‘Where Mary Queen of Scots went and what she did there’, is a fast-paced and very accessible guide to the travels of Scotland’s most famous historical figure.
Co-authored by Andrew Burnet, Nicki Scott and Sally Gall from Historic Scotland, the book is extensively illustrated charting Mary’s life from just before her birth at Linlithgow Palace to the months after her execution at Fotheringhay Castle in Northamptonshire.
You can purchase your copy online or at our visitor attractions, as well as at the National Museum of Scotland.
Linlithgow Palace
Stirling Castle
Inchmahome Priory
Dumbarton Castle
Crichton Castle
Mary, Queen of Scots
Edzell Castle
Spynie Palace
Balvenie Castle
Mary, Queen of Scots (available to view at Dumbarton Castle)
Castle Campbell
Whithorn Priory
Mary, Queen of Scots (available to view at Dumbarton Castle)
Huntingtower Castle
Edinburgh Castle
Hermitage Castle
Mary, Queen of Scots (available to view at Dumbarton Castle)
Tantallon Castle
Craigmillar Castle
Mary arrives in Leith, on return from France
Lochleven Castle
Dundrennan Abbey

Mary, Queen of Scots is one of the most famous and controversial figures in Scottish history.
Her story arouses strong emotions: was she betrayed by those she trusted, condemned to die a Catholic martyr or was she a murdering adulteress with her husband’s blood on her hands?
Shown only in Edinburgh, the Mary Queen of Scots exhibition at the National Museum of Scotland provided a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to explore Mary’s epic story, and to discover an array of rare treasures never before seen together.
Did the exhibition make you want to find out more about Mary? Or did you miss the chance to visit, and want to discover her past? The National Museum of Scotland has a wide range of information, including a number of collections stories that bring her history to life.
Image © Blairs Museum Trust
Mary was born during a bitterly cold winter, in the spectacular royal palace of Linlithgow. Originally built by her great-great-great-grandfather James I, it was developed by successive Stewart kings, including Mary’s father James V, who commissioned the elaborate fountain that has been restored and is again functioning.

Mary’s father James V died when she was only six days old, leaving an infant queen on the throne. Her coronation was held nine months later at Stirling, one of the most secure places in the kingdom.She would spend most of her childhood here and return frequently during her adult reign. The sumptuous royal palace commissioned by her father was still being completed, but this and James IV’s vast great hall made Stirling the grandest of Scotland’s royal residences.

Henry VIII of England was eager to secure a marriage between Mary and his son Prince Edward, preventing a Catholic alliance between Scotland and France. The Scots nobles had other ideas, so Henry sent his forces to ravage Scotland: the Wars of the Rough Wooing. After a ghastly massacre at Pinkie, near Edinburgh, four-year-old Mary was sent into hiding at this charming little island priory in the Lake of Menteith, where she spent three happy weeks, reportedly learning some Latin from the prior.

Built on a towering rock at the mouth of the River Clyde, Dumbarton was one of Scotland’s most ancient and most impregnable strongholds. It also gave access to sea routes, and it was from here that Mary and her party departed for France, after a marriage was agreed between her and Francis, heir to the French throne. She would spend the next 13 years at the French court, and did not return to Scotland until 1561.

Mary enjoyed weddings, and was generous with gifts. The lavish celebration she attended at handsome Crichton Castle would have been special for two reasons. The bridegroom was her half-brother John Stewart of Coldingham, often described as her favourite sibling. And the bride was Janet Hepburn, sister of the 4th Earl of Bothwell. She did not know him well at this time but would come to regard him as her most loyal supporter – and ultimately married him.

During her royal progresses around the country, Mary sometimes presided at legal hearings. She did so during her sole visit to Edzell Castle, grand residence of Sir David Lindsay. The case she heard centred on petty fraud, so a royal audience must have lent unusual gravity to the proceedings.

Mary first encountered open rebellion in Aberdeenshire. The maverick 4th Earl of Huntly and his wayward sons had deliberately defied her and even attempted to kidnap her. She brooded on these events at Spynie, the northernmost point on her travels. Her host was the Bishop of Moray, a relative of Bothwell’s, and no saint: he had many mistresses and at least 13 illegitimate children. Huntly was brought down the following month at the Battle of Corrichie, where he died of a seizure.

During her progresses, Mary relied on local noblemen to play host. It was costly to house and feed the queen in the lavish manner to which she was accustomed, but it was also a great privilege, and allowed her hosts to petition her for favours. At Balvenie, she was the guest of John Stewart, 4th Earl of Atholl, who was able to accommodate her in his grand new Atholl Lodging, which still survives.

Mary attended another winter wedding at the grand lowland residence of the powerful Campbells, imposingly sited at the top of Dollar Glen. The marriage was between her distant cousin James Stewart, Lord Doune and Margaret, sister of the 5th Earl of Argyll. The earl himself was married – unhappily – to Mary’s half-sister Jean. A staunch Protestant, he had a strained relationship with Mary and played a crucial role in her final military downfall at Langside in 1568.

Mary visited the far south-west during a long progress in summer 1563. She made one stop at Whithorn, where her grandfather James IV had been a frequent and notable pilgrim. Times had changed. Since the Protestant Reformation of 1560, pilgrimage was frowned upon, though Mary was by no means the only Scot still practising Catholicism.

Mary’s decision to marry Darnley was unpopular with many of her nobles. As a descendant of the Tudor dynasty, he bolstered the Stuart claim on the English throne, but he was arrogant, dissolute, nakedly ambitious and entirely untrustworthy. After the wedding on 29th July, the Protestant lords, led by Mary’s half-brother the Earl of Moray, rose in rebellion. Mary raised an army and rode at its head, pursuing the rebel forces around the country. The two armies never clashed, and this episode came to be known as the Chaseabout Raid. Ultimately, Moray and his supporters fled south into England. During this episode, Mary and Darnley stayed at Huntingtower, the residence of Patrick, 3rd Lord Ruthven. Mary was said to despise him, but in the circumstances his hospitality proved welcome.

A key goal for any monarch was to produce an heir – ideally a healthy male one. As the great-granddaughter of Henry VII, Mary also had a strong claim to the English throne. By producing a son with her second husband, Lord Darnley, she both secured her succession and strengthened her dynastic position. James – the future king of both Scotland and England – was born in a tiny room at Edinburgh Castle, still accessible to visitors.

Mary was en route to Jedburgh on state business when word reached her that Bothwell had been wounded in a skirmish. She rode 25 miles to visit him on his sickbed at Hermitage, and 25 miles back, all in a single day. Her enemies later portrayed this as evidence of an adulterous affair, but Mary was accompanied at all times. More seriously, she fell sick on the return journey, and very nearly died from the most severe of her many bouts of illness.

Tantallon is one of the most dramatically sited castles in Scotland, commanding a superb view across the mouth of the Firth of Forth and – on its heavily fortified south side – across much of East Lothian. Mary stopped here briefly on her way home from Jedburgh after her life-threatening illness. Until recently, the castle had been in the hands of the Earl of Morton, a powerful nobleman who would later govern Scotland as Regent Morton. However, he had recently been ousted as a punishment for his part in the murder of Rizzio, Mary’s private secretary.

From Tantallon, Mary proceeded to Craigmillar Castle just outside Edinburgh. Her host here was her loyal supporter Sir Simon Preston, whom she had appointed as Provost of Edinburgh. Mary was still unwell, and her marriage to Darnley was on the rocks. He absented himself and she withdrew into privacy. This left her privy counsellors free to scheme, and the subject of their scheming was unambiguous. The ‘Craigmillar Bond’, on which they supposedly pledged to murder Darnley is probably a fiction, but they were certainly plotting his downfall.

Mary had visited Lochleven on previous occasions, but always as a willing guest. The 11 months she spent here as a prisoner were among the worst of her life. She was heavily pregnant with twins, but suffered a miscarriage a month into her captivity. Days later, she was pressured into abdicating. Then Moray browbeat her into endorsing him as regent, to govern the country on behalf of her son, the infant King James VI. It was a terrible year, but eventually, disguised as one of her companions, she escaped.

After her escape from Lochleven Castle, Mary’s supporters rallied, and before long she had a sizeable army at her command. But her cherished ambition to reclaim her crown was dashed on 13th May at the Battle of Langside, where her men were ambushed and routed. Mary was forced to retreat south, and eventually crossed the border to throw herself on the mercy of her cousin, Elizabeth I of England. Her last stop was at the peaceful abbey of Dundrennan, where she wrote to Elizabeth before boarding a fishing boat to Cumbria.
