Isn't it odd?
Isn't it odd how literary genius and licensed premises oft, like freedom and whisky, gang t'gither? The Old Boars Head (Ben Johnson) and The Mermaid (Shakespeare) spring to mind. In Dumfries, the Globe Inn, in the High Street will always be associated with Robert Burns. It is one of the country's oldest hostelries, established in 1610. Robert Burns frequented the Globe firstly from Ellisland Farm, whilst he was building the farmhouse, and subsequently...
when he moved into the town
of Dumfries.Dumfries in Burns' time was economically,
and socially, more significant than it is today; in 1752
it was described as the 'Scottish Liverpool' with more
American tobacco trade than Glasgow.
Its importance as a west coast port was emphasized by the
fact that an estimated 21,000 people from all over Scotland,
more than the town's own population, emigrated through Dumfries
in 1851 to the United States, Australia and New Zealand.
Like any important centre, the town attracted its share of craftsmen,
literary and social, and those who were politically aware;
the French Revolution was at hand and nationalism was in the
air. The Globe at that time was a town centre Inn of some
stature and it is no wonder that the bard was drawn to it.
Physically the Globe has changed little, although in 1829 it was
described as a 'commodious dwelling house and garden with extensive
stabling’.
This would hardly be recognized today, the building now surrounded
on all sides by shops and the stable now formed into a lounge
bar. However, the old rooms are still there, his chair is
still intact, the fireplace thereby but above all, the Globe
is still alive and far removed from some inert museum; people
still congregate to chat and laugh as before. The world is
smaller so that world events are received over satellite in
our homes rather than outside the Globe at eight in the evening.
The decline of its...
sea trade and its bypass by rail then by
road meant that, geographically, Dumfries and Galloway became
a haven for tourists rather than tradesmen. The fruit machine
has not quite replaced the human desire for contact with your
fellow men, yes and lassies too. The Globe Inn, has seemingly
flourished under the watchful eye of the guid woman, and regrettably
little is known of the landlords, or landladies, prior to the arrival of
Robert Burns in Dumfries, when the Inn rose to prominence...
He first wrote
from the Globe in October 1791, but had visited earlier, and
in August 1795, in a letter to James Johnson, requested the
printer and publisher to produce “a job which I beg
will finish pretty soon. t is a bill, as you will see, for
a tavern. The tavern keeper Hyslop is a good honest fellow
and as I lie under particular obligations to him I request
that you may do it for him on the most reasonable terms. The
tavern is at the sign of the Globe ...". William 'Jock'
Hyslop and his wife Meg were...
subsequently immortalized in a
grace after meat which Burns was said to have been asked to compose
by his dining companions giving thanks to the Hyslops, who had given up
their own dinner - a sheep's heid no less...
April 1796 just three months before his untimely death, Burns wrote to George Thomson, a letter which “will be delivered to you by Mrs. Hyslop, a landlady of the Globe Tavern here which for these many years has been my Howff (haunt) and where...
our friend Clarke and I have
had many a merry squeeze. It is a most poignant letter; worth
visiting the 'snug' bar to read it in full. The Hyslops were
as famous in having a niece, Anna Park, with whom Robert
had an affair. The daughter of the affair was brought up by
Jean Armour, Anna having died shortly after the birth; a marvellous
tribute to Jean's loving forebearance. It would have been during Mrs.
Hyslop's time that the Mausoleum Committee met in the Globe
on the 25th January 1819...
...effectively the first Burns
Supperwhen steps were taken to arrange an annual celebration which led
to the formation, in 1820, of the Dumfries Burns Club. More is known of
the sixty years tenure of Mrs. Jane Smith, one of the only three families
to have run the Globe since Burns' time. It was Mrs. Smith who perhaps
more than any other was responsible for preserving the Inn's association
with the National Bard. The Burns Howff Club, instituted in 1889, held
Mrs. Smith in great affection addressing her as the 'Mother'.
Indeed she...
and her niece, Mrs. Grierson,
were the only women honorary members of the Howff Club, until
1996 when Maureen McKerrow was made an honorary member during
the bi-centenary celebrations. McKerrow family have owned the
Globe since 1937, both Matthew and George becoming Burns Federation
Presidents. Many still remember Jack and “Ma Broon” who had a long
association with the Globe. In those days, like many other pubs of the
day the back room of the Globe was very much a male working
class drinking den, devoid of creature comforts but complete
with a piano, of sorts, and a set of drums with every encouragement
to the clientele to provide their own entertainment...
...Ma would rule her fiefdom and put up
with no nonsense. If someone, to whom she did not take to, opened the
sliding door of the snug he was politely told - Nae laddie, your place
is next door. The present landlady, Maureen McKerrow, George's daughter-in-law,
has seen, over the last 29 years much of the High Street demolished,
and rebuilt, around the Globe. The building was after all originally open to
the High Street, the horses being stabled in what is now the lounge bar.
Some things...
...never change for in 1945, Matthew McKerrow
noted that a sum had been set aside to pay for the re-roofing of the property
when such work was possible (there was a lack of building materials at the time)
and one imagines that the roof will need constant repair to this day.
Some things do change ... He also put down that “the property should not be sold
to a foreigner”! Nowadays overseas visitors are especially welcome, hopefully
to receive the same warmth of hospitality experienced by the
Bard....
...
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